Where Did Night Vision Devices Come From

Posted by – February 9, 2010

The night vision equipment used by consumers today has its origins in the armed forces. The army also responsible for lots of other things like the world wide web, freeze dried food and the global positioning system just to name a few. But when it comes to night vision technology I’m not talking about the stuff that your children might play with, but the Real McCoy.

 

In the early days of warfare like today it was common for a operation to take place at night . The reason I think is very obvious. A unit of soldiers are able to keep the element of surprise until the last moment of attack. Now in the past this was not always possible as you can only see as much as your enemy can see so attacks were usually planned for clear moonlit nights which gave better night vision. But as you know this also hampered the element of surprise. The US Army have researched tirelessly for years researching many methods to enhance a soldiers vision at night and thanks to their advances the whole playing field of combat warfare has changed dramatically not to mention the many uses for this technology in the civilian world.

 

Night vision optics gather the available light by using electro magnetic radiation that is out of the range of the human eye. Making use of this available light allows night goggles, binoculars and scopes the ability to see in total darkness. At dusk and in low visibility conditions the night vision technology allows a soldier to see, maneuver and engage in combat.

 

Although this night vision scope technology is continually improving the two types commonly used are: image intensifiers and thermal imaging devices. Thermal devices work by looking at and understanding the differences in temperature in the direction they are pointed. The FLIR (Thermal Forward-Looking Infrared) detector option is often used on the armed forces vehicles and rescue helicopters.

 

Now image intensifiers work by magnifying available light 2-5000 times more than what the human eye can see. The intensified light makes use of phosphorous screen technology (similar to that used in a TV)enveloped in an eye piece to give the user as close to normal vision as possible. When a soldiers eyepiece is in place, the equipment will amplify available light allowing an image to be transmitted to the eyepiece giving the soldier an image of what he is looking at. The phosphorous monitor or screen is green in color. The human eye can recognize more levels of green than any other color in the visible spectrum eanabling the soldier to see better in the darkest conditions.

 

There are a high number magnifications available for different lenses as well as different conditions and ranges. Different things work for different conditions and situations and this is something the military had to deal with also. Although a soldier needs the best equipment possible other things like portability, weight and cost had to be taken into account. So by using a night vision binocular with image intensifiers only the weight was kept to a minimum and soldiers could carry out there missions in low light. This would ensure the US Army kept their cost down.

 

A couple of things you should know if you do get a set of night vision goggles is you will get a certain amount of tunnel vision because your peripheral vision is cut off within the eyepiece. By constantly moving you can counter this loss of judgment to a certain extent but judging distances can still be an effort at times. Another point to remember is that objects can seem larger or smaller than what they actually are. Usually a user’s vision can go from 20/20 to 20/25 but 20/25 is still better than no vision at all. The military have the option to work under the shroud of darkness, much like their enemies, allowing for a better chance to capture and defeat when necessary. FLIR’s really do help in locating any thermal energy whether it be human or animal in lots of different conditions and that is why the night goggles technology is used by security and rescue personal alike not to mention the outdoors man as well.

 

Tips For Selecting The Best Hunting Scopes For Your Application

Posted by – February 1, 2010

It is common for rifles and shotguns to look like something is missing when no hunting scope or other kind of sighting device is attached. They are becoming more and more popular for handguns, too. The main reason is that it makes it less difficult to hit your target, when it is further away, even though the firearms can have the iron sights built in. By looking into a magnifying scope or using a red dot laser sight, it is easier to see your target and get a more accurate shot.

All rifle scopes feature a sizing system called a number range, these numbers refer to a hunting scope’s magnification ranges and the diameter of its objective lens. The first numbers of a 3-9x 40 scope would mean it is a variable optic capable of 3 times closer than the naked eye and up to 9 times the naked eye in magnification. The important thing here is how low is the magnification, not how high. This is because as the magnification increases, the extent of light through the eyepiece is less.

The last number of the number range shows you the diameter of the objective lens, measured in mm. Generally, gun scopes use objective lenses with diameters of 40 to 45 millimeters. Some more extreme models range up to 75 millimeters, but this isn’t needed. The bigger the objective lens number, the larger it will be and the more light you will get through the scope. It is this fine balance of magnification and objective lens size than gives the best detail, this is essential for the most accurate shot.

Picking magnification size depends on how much magnification you will require. You should not forget that the lower the magnification, the greater the detail, but you also need to consider the size and distance of your targets. You want to select a 3-9x 40 hunting scope for hunting large targets like deer, but for smaller, more distant targets like pheasants or squirrels, you might need a 6-20x or an 8-25x variable rifle scope.

A scope’s objective lenses also can be variable or adjustable. External parallax adjustments can alter the diameter of variable objective hunting scopes. This can make a difference with hunting scopes with greater than 10x magnification. You won’t generally get this feature on optics with less magnifications.

Hunting scope lenses generally are water resistant and fog-proof. They are coated with one or more layers of coating to help lower loss of light and glare. Generally speaking, the more layers of this coating you have, the more defined the contrast and the better the object’s image will be. Hunting scope lenses which are fully multi-coated are always seen as the best because they usually give greater light transmission and give a sharper contrast.

Another phrase you will hear while you’re looking at hunting scope optics is Field Of View, or FOV. Field of View is refering to how many feet, left to right, you will be able see when looking through the scope. Normally your FOV at a 100 yard measurement using 3x magnification can be about 30 feet. As the magnification you use gets smaller, the Field of View goes up. At 9x magnification, the FOV is only about 14 feet.

You need to understand a rifle scopes dimensions when you are choosing the best overall scope for the kind of hunting you will be doing. As you now know, the measurements can make quite a difference in how precise your shots will be.

Hunting Gear at Basspro.com

Nikon Coyote Scopes – Designed for Predator Hunting

Posted by – February 1, 2010

Nikon Coyote Special 3-9x40 Mossy Oak Brush Rifle Scope

The popularity of coyote hunting in the United States has increased immensely with the population of the coyotes themselves.  Culling of farm animals as well as wild game like deer and turkey by coyotes is a big problem today.   Many states have very long hunting seasons for coyote with generous bag limits in an effort to check this varmint’s population explosion.

Coyotes are intelligent critters and are a challenge to hunt. They feature keen vision, very good hearing and scent detection.    Hunters want to get coyotes to come to him as they are too smart to stalk.  Hunters get this done generally with audible calls that simulate a dying rabbit or another coyote.When moved by the hunter’s call, coyotes most likely will come from downwind to check the wind prior to moving in close.  If the hunters efforts pan out as planned and the coyote comes within range, they seldom stay in one place.  Getting off a clean shot at a coyote is one of the rewarding challenges a hunter can face.

In order to help meet the unique challenges of coyote hunting you need a 
Nikon Coyote Special 3-9×40 Mossy Oak Brush Rifle Scope.  It is a Nikon Buckmaster with a special Bullet Drop Compensating (BDC) reticle, available camo finishes, and an anti-reflective device (ARD).

The BDC reticle is calibrated {to|for} the .223, 55 grain bullet zeroed at 100 yards or the 22-250, 55 grain round zeroed at 200 yards.  The use of the BDC reticle is to compensate for bullet drop beyond the range that you sighted your rifle in at.  The BDC holdover reference circles are large, that lets you to keep aim on the coyote accurately even as it continues to trot.

The Nikon Coyote Special 3-9×40 Mossy Oak Brush Rifle Scope can be ordered in matte black or 2 camo finishes.  The camo will match some of the new camo varmint rifles available on the market, and when coupled with full body camo it will greatly reduce the ability of a coyote to spot the hunter.  Matching camo rings are also available.

The ARD is assembled right onto the objective bell of the scope.  It features a honey-comb pattern that eliminates glare off the objective lens that could scare a coyote.  The interesting part of it is the shooter cannot see the ARD when viewing through the scope.  The shooter always has a clear field of view.

The Nikon Coyote Special 3-9×40 Mossy Oak Brush Rifle Scope Special scopes come in 3-9×40mm and 4.5-14×40mm.  For shots under 200 yards the 3-9×40mm will be enough magnification.  For shots at 200 yards or further the 4.5-14×40mm will be the better choice.

Gear That You Must Have When You Are Camping

Posted by – January 27, 2010

When you are on a camping trip, there are some basic essentials that you need to carry with you so that you can have an equally enjoyable time away from home. Prepare a list of the items you cannot do without because you will not be able to carry everything. Therefore, amongst many other things, lightweight tents for camping should be considered.

As exciting as it may be, you cannot enjoy a camping trip if you are not geared up with the right kind of camping equipment. Arriving with the basic necessities is important so check out the your list of the essential things you need.g. tents, cooking equipment and clothes. In order to have all the appropriate things you need to plan well before your trip. You could start working on it a few weeks ahead of time or may be a month beforehand. Unless you have a proper planning, you are bound to forget something or the other and you surely would not want to discover that you have left behind something very important.

The first and most important thing to get is your tent. When purchasing a tent try and consider all the factors, one of which is, the weather conditions of the place you are going to be staying; remember it has to suit your needs for that particular trip. The next thing that goes on your list is a comfortable sleeping bag and these come in a wide variety of shapes, sizes, material, fabric and colours. You could include a sleeping mat for added comfort for instance an inflated mat that will also give you better insulation.

Your list of foodstuff that you intend to carry depends on how many people are going to eat that food. It is difficult to store perishable foods so we advise not to take it. Utensils for cooking need to be included; plates, spoons, cups, spatula, cooking spoon, two or three pots, eating utensils and a frying pan would all do beautifully. You should carry spare containers with you just in case you have any left over food; this can be stored and used for your next meal.

A camp stove can be very handy, if bad weather forbids you to light up a campfire. You can do a great deal with a camp stove; you will be surprised. Fresh meals can be cooked if you can be bothered to take time out to cook them.

Flashlights, matches and lighters can be of great use if you have to fend for something in the dark. You must also have a first-aid kit with you because it can come in handy when you are camping. The kit can include strips of band-aid, cotton balls, gauze, antiseptic ointment, sunscreen, a burn spray, an antibiotic, aspirin, insect repellent and some other medicines that you normally take.

As concerns the clothing, you must take lightweight clothes yet they should be sufficient for the kind of weather you are going to face. Ensure you take clothes which dry fast and which do not remain damp for an age. Rain gear that is lightweight can be included if you want as this is useful in a shower. If you are planning on hiking on rough ground then include a pair of sturdy boots into your packing. Other than this a pair of sneakers will suffice.

Apart from these you will need a pair of sunglasses to protect your eyes from the harsh sun. You can also do with other necessities such as a small hatchet, an all-purpose knife, a deck of cards, a book or two and any other thing that you would prefer as a pastime.

One thing you must remember is that whatever you take with you, must be lightweight specifically if you are going backpacking because you would not want to come back with a bad back. You will be ready for your camping trip once you have gathered all the essential stuff and checked out it’s weight. Carry it about for a few minutes to see how you feel.

Moose Delight – Moose Can Be More Then Just A Roast!

Posted by – January 27, 2010

moose_huntingThere are so many other parts of the moose that do not get eaten. Here are some good ideas for meals you

The moose calf liver was the mildest and tenderest I have ever eaten; it is way superior to calf or lamb liver.

I cut it into 8 slices (it weighs close to 12 pounds) and froze seven of them, holding one out to have fresh tonight. For lunch all we had were the trimmings and they just knocked me out.

The next meal will be even better. I simmered the head meat for 4 1/2 hours. It wasn’t even a full simmer but what the French call a chuckle with the water around 185 F and with the odd bubble coming to the surface every 30 seconds or so.

The cartilage softened and the gristle melted nicely and the meat comes off the bone fairly easily but is still a bit chewy and not fork shreddable. I had little nibbles of various pieces as I packed it away.

The lips need to have the thick ugly white membrane peeled away; the wee bit of meat underneath is delicious. The nose is rich, fatty soft cartilage and has the firm texture of the Pope’s (or Parson’s) nose on a chicken or pig’s feet. And the cheek meat trimmings were totally awesome. I plan to braise the two cheeks in fat for their second cooking when I get to them. A 25 pound head yields about 4 pounds of usable meat, not counting the brains or tongue (the brain was destroyed by a perfect head shot and Ray reserved the tongue for his own table) plus 2 quarts of rich stock.

If I had used the whole head and not just the lower jaw, nose, cheeks and one neck vertebrae the yield would have been even higher.

Monday: Despite the small amount of bone used the stock jellied up nicely upon cooling. That half gallon of stock is so rich it will make a gallon of soup broth.

Today I picked up some pot barley, a leek and a turnip and made some Scotch broth with the neck meat and a portion of the nose. Ray and Matthew tell me that aboriginal hunters often roast the nose on a skewer over an open fire in the field as a snack while butchering the body.

Traditionally the hunters also eat the liver (warm and raw) for strength and it rarely made it home to the women and children. (My liver had a little slice missing as Ray paid symbolic homage to the tradition.)

Tuesday: I re-heated the leftover soup and added some Espagnole sauce and lima beans. Even better the second time. Cheers Jim in Yellowknife

Rabbit Braised with Red and Green Peppers: Coniglio ai Pepperoni

Posted by – January 19, 2010

Rabbit_braised1 (2 1/2-pound) rabbit, cut into 6 pieces
1 cup red wine, mixed with 1 cup water
6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 large onions, halved and thinly sliced
1/4 cup dry white wine
4 to 6 bell peppers, green and red, trimmed, cored, and cut into eighths
Salt and pepper

Place the rabbit pieces in a bowl with the wine-water mixture and marinate for 1 hour. Drain and dry thoroughly with paper towels.

In a pan large enough to hold all the ingredients, heat 3 tablespoons of the olive oil over medium-high heat. Add the rabbit pieces and brown on both sides, about 5 to 7 minutes per side. As they brown, remove the pieces and set aside. When the rabbit is done, lower the heat to medium-low and stir in the onion slices. Cook until the onion is limp and golden, but don’t let it brown. Add the white wine to the pan, bring to a simmer, then add the rabbit pieces, nestling them among the onions, and cook, covered, for about 30 minutes.

Put the remaining 3 tablespoons of oil in a separate frying pan and over medium-low heat gently simmer the pepper slices until they are thoroughly wilted and starting to brown, about 15 minutes uncovered and 15 minutes covered. Stir the peppers and their juices into the pan with the rabbit, add salt and pepper, to taste, and cook together for an additional 30 minutes.

Check the amount of liquid in the pan after 15 minutes, there should be a small amount of syrupy oil in the bottom of the pan, enough to keep the meat and vegetables from burning. Add a little more white wine, water, or broth if necessary to prevent sticking. Serve immediately.

Yield: 6 servings
Prep Time: 25 minutes
Cook Time: 1 hour 45 minutes
Inactive Prep Time: 1 hour
Difficulty level: intermediate


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